Utah Vagabond

Utah travel, things to see and good eats

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  1. Shotgun Start
    Monday, June 10, 2013
  2. Girl Power
    Monday, June 03, 2013
  3. Where Nature is Delicious
    Thursday, May 30, 2013
  4. Ode to My Favorite Summer Concert Venue
    Thursday, May 23, 2013
  5. Where I Take a Moment for Shameless Self Promotion
    Thursday, May 09, 2013
  6. Pedal Pusher
    Monday, April 29, 2013
  7. Happy Trails
    Monday, April 22, 2013
  8. My Favorite Zion Wine
    Friday, April 12, 2013
  9. A Living Tribute
    Wednesday, April 03, 2013
  10. Moab Minus Sand Between Your Toes
    Sunday, March 24, 2013

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UTAHVAGABOND.COM

Shotgun Start


Log swing break, Temple Quarry Trail, Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Last Friday was my kids' last day of school. Remember what a great day that was when you were 8 and 10? Almost like Christmas or a birthday. We didn't intend to jam pack summer break's first official weekend, but that's exactly how it turned out. And in hindsight I realize how well those two days illustrate Salt Lake City's unparalleled mountain access, which is why I decided to share our adventures here.




Meredith flipping out on Snowbird's bungee trampoline.

My husband works at Snowbird Ski & Summer Resort which kicked off its summer activities (The alpine slide, kids' bounce houses, mountain flyer, scenic Tram rides and bungee trampolines.) on Saturday. On Friday evening, however, the resort generously opened the activities to employees and their families. We took a spin on the alpine slide and mountain flyer and then headed over to the resort's Lodge Bistro restaurant for a really delicious dinner. Afterward Dave headed home with the kids while I headed further up the canyon to a poetry reading as part of Writer's@Work, a writing conference hosted annually by the University of Utah's stellar creative writing department at the Alta Lodge.


   Indulging in America's favorite pastime at downtown Salt Lake's Spring Mobile Ballpark.

On Saturday following a day of bike rides and yard work, we headed downtown to catch a Salt Lake Bees baseball game. The Bees are a minor league team affiliated with the L.A. Angels. Admittedly, I'm as into baseball as I am any other team sport (Not at all.), but there's something about sitting in bleachers drinking a cold beer that makes me feel like I'm fulfilling my birthright as an American. And the Spring Mobile Ballpark (Known as the Apiary by fans.) is a particularly cool place to watch boys play with sticks and balls. Home plate is at the northwest corner of the stadium which not only allows spectators panoramic Wasatch Range views but comfortable shade from the first pitch all summer long. Sure it's the Minors but as far as family entertainment would still be a deal at twice the price: tickets start at $5, on Wednesdays hotdogs are $1 and on Thirsty Thursdays, 16 oz domestic beers are $2.75.

 
Charlie cooling off in the spray at the base of Lisa's Falls.

On Sunday, temperatures soared into the 90s, driving us back into Little Cottonwood Canyon for a hike away from the valley heat. The trailhead for Lisa's Falls is at an unmarked parking area on the north side of the Little Cottonwood Canyon Road between milepost markers 6 and 7. The walk to the falls' base is very short--less than half a mile--but is also rocky and steep. We ate a picnic near the falls while watching a couple of rock climbers navigate the granite face next to the falls.

  
Remnants of the Temple Quarry, circa mid-1800s.

After lunch we headed across the road to walk for a bit up the Temple Quarry Trail, named after the quarry that operated here in the 1800s to supply stone for the construction of the Salt Lake City LDS Temple. Though this trail is accessed at various points along the south side of the Little Cottonwood Canyon Road, the trailhead is located and well marked at the base of the canyon. The first mile of the hiking/mountain biking trail is paved and appropriate for even the youngest children; the upper 2.5 miles varies between a wide, gravel-lined pathway to rocky single track and ends at the quarry ruins pictured above.

We indeed packed it in this weekend, but didn't get to everything I wanted to do including the opening weekend of the Downtown Salt Lake City Farmer's Market, a Real Salt Lake soccer game, and the Park Silly Sunday Market and Flying Ace All Stars Show (Olympic freestyle skiers landing tricks into a huge splash pool.) at the Utah Olympic Park. Guess we've got our "work" cut out for us next weekend. 

Girl Power

I spent last weekend as I do many in the warm weather months: on my bike. But rather than pedaling around the Salt Lake City foothills and canyons I drove two hours north to Lewiston for the Bonneville Cycling Club's Little Red Riding Hood, one of the West's premiere all-women organized bicycle rides.


The scene at the start of last weekend's Little Red Riding Hood 2013.

Little Red Riding Hood was founded by Alice Telford who thought (Long before road cycling was as popular as it is now.) that the quiet, flat and scenic country roads in northern Utah's Cache Valley would be a near perfect venue for an all-women's ride similar to ones she'd participated in elsewhere. Twenty-five women pedaled the first ever Little Red in 1987. The ride continued year after year, growing slowly but steadily. This year's ride was the biggest yet including more than 3,500 riders from 26 states participating in 18-, 36-, 50-, 70- and 100-mile course options; a pre-ride party and dinner the night before the ride; route entertainment; a costume contest; and finish-line celebration.



Big sky country. The quiet and stunningly scenic roads in Utah's Cache County provide miles and miles of picture-perfect road biking.

I rode Little Red for the first time--and my first century--two years ago. Despite a slightly clunky registration process that year, I was blown away by how well the event was run. The rest stops were frequent and generously stocked. The course was extremely well marked. And entertainment all along the way made the ride feel more like a party rather than athletic event.


Event organizers, decked out in their Bollywood best, are an apt indication of LRRH's festive atmosphere.

This year's Little Red ride was even better. The Bonneville Cycling Club transformed sleepy Lewiston, Utah into an event headquarters on par with much larger, big city athletic events underwritten by major corporations. The vendor expo featured high-quality products and services. The Bollywood theme was well-executed and creatively translated in colorful decorations and unique entertainment and food. And as in the past, the rest stops were ideally placed and so well stocked the only items I used that weren't provided (Beyond standard cycling gear.) was lip balm.

LRRH's exploding popularity over the last several years forced event organizers to this year go to a lottery format for registration. But instead of the hassle-ridden ride number pick up process I'd experienced in 2011 (Waiting in line for hours at a park a few days before the event.), this year bibs and t-shirts were conveniently mailed to participants about a month in advance of the event. (LRRH also functions as a fundraiser for the Huntsman Cancer Foundation giving riders an option of fundraising and/or making a donation for registration versus taking their chances with the lottery.)

For weeks leading up to the ride, I was uncertain if I was going to participate in LRRH at all this year. My daughter and I both came down with whooping cough early in May which, as you know if you've ever had it, is a very long-lasting illness. Not fun. The week before LRRH I rallied and decided to go for the 50-mile option. I am so glad I did. The day was beautiful, the company fantastic (Thanks, Karen!) and I felt great.

Lottery sign up for the LRRH 2014, scheduled for June 7, will be held in mid-January. For details click here.



Karen and I enjoying a hard-earned, post-LRRH Lime Ricky.             


 

Where Nature is Delicious



Lumber baron L.F. Rains had Log Haven built in 1920 as a anniversary gift to his wife. Logs harvested in Oregon and carried four miles up Millcreek Canyon via horse-drawn wagon were used to build the venerable lodge.

If the many advantages to living in Salt Lake City were encapsulated in a restaurant, it would be Log Haven. Tucked amid lush stands of Ponderosa pine, Aspen and Gambel oak in Millcreek Canyon, this stately, rough hewn log retreat seems miles from anywhere but in fact is located just 20 minutes from downtown. The cozy interior—replete with leather club chairs, river rock fireplaces and crisp white linen-covered tables—make Log Haven an impressive choice for milestone celebrations, date nights and entertaining out-of-town friends and clients in the winter months. During the summer however, when seating opens on the Waterfall patio, the vibe here is definitively more laid back while the food and service remain five-star. I was lucky enough to get an invite to the inimitable restaurant’s annual spring menu tasting last week and, as in the past, Chef Dave Jones, General Manager Ian Campbell and Events Director Faith Sweeten did not disappoint.

We were greeted with this champagne cocktail when we arrived at Log Haven last week, which even my bubbly-adverse husband found tasty. I found it irresistible.

It’s almost impossible to narrow down my favorite item from the amazing dishes on Log Haven's off-the-charts summer menu. The grilled calamari was wonderfully smoky and, when pared with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, is summertime's essence on a plate. I won’t soon forget the seared sea scallops served over a lemon poppy seed risotto filled with lovey al dente English peas. And the smoked duck and Serrano chile pasta offered an unexpected Southwest-inspired kick balanced perfectly with a fresh mango salsa. By just a nose, however, the star of the evening for me was the grilled whiskey-miso halibut served with a brilliant compressed super greens and sesame salad, an item part of Log Haven’s high-impact, low calorie summer menu.


Our server told us the ingenious compressed salad accompanying this delicate halibut entree is made with almost a full bunch of greens
 ... delicious and nutritious!


In addition to the fantastic, award-winning menu and thoughtful wine list, Log Haven summertime happenings include live piano music every Thursday through Sunday evening. The Dog Days of Summer, an invitation to come with your dog for post-canyon hike dinner or cocktails on the restaurant’s outdoor amphitheater. And the Early Bird Special, where diners arriving before 6:30 p.m. can enjoy a decadent surf and turf (steak and lobster) dinner for just $27.50.

Log Haven takes reservations from 5:30 to 9 p.m. nightly and is located four miles up Millcreek Canyon (3800 South) on the south side of the canyon road.




 

Ode to My Favorite Summer Concert Venue


My profile view of the amazing venue at Red Butte Garden.

Red Butte Garden kicked off its summer concert season earlier this week with an amazing show by the alternative rock juggernaut Vampire Weekend. The crowd was on its feet before the band started playing and remained there until the end of the boy band’s (They all look like boy bands to me now.) signature show-ending song "Walcott.” I think an apt gauge of how a performer is connecting with an audience is how many people are in the bathroom during the show. I unfortunately didn’t plan ahead and had to make a quick trip to the head after about song three. The place was deserted. Enough said.

VW’s show was a resounding homerun, but even if they’d been just meh, I’d still have had a blast because of A, the company (Thanks, Sheller!) and B, the venue. Summer concerts at Red Butte Garden are—far and away—one of the biggest perks of living in Utah. Owned and maintained by the University of Utah, Red Butte is the largest botanical garden in the Intermountain West. Most of its 100 acres are dedicated to display and natural gardens, walking paths and natural areas with hiking trails save for a gently sloping, grassy hillside on the garden’s north end used to host concerts. 

Without fail, every performer I’ve seen at Red Butte comments about how stunning the venue is during their performance. How could they not? The venue itself is surrounding by lush perennial gardens and mature Gambel oak trees, and views from the stage span east up Red Butte Canyon and north along the Wasatch Front. Because of the venue’s foothill location, canyon breezes keep temps comfortable even on summer's hottest days. A sell out show—as was the case for Vampire Weekend—is only about 3,000 people, translating into the place never feeling crowded and post-show traffic jams non-existent.

Red Butte concerts in the early days definitely featured B-level artists. But what I am guessing is due to how stunningly beautiful the venue is, major acts representing a variety of genres now pack the annual schedule. Steely Dan, Dwight Yokum, Tony Bennett, Jackson Brown, She & Him, David Byrne, Michael Franti & Spearhead and The Black Crows are just a few of the acts scheduled to play there later this summer.

And unlike other concert venues where entry entails metal detectors, pat downs and outside food and beverage confiscation, the scene at a Red Butte concert is like having a picnic in the park on a Sunday afternoon. Low slung chairs and coolers are both allowed and encouraged. We usually eat potluck style when we’re there with a group, passing around good eats and bottles of wine.

Communal probably best describes the Red Butte Garden concert experience. The place illustrates perfectly Salt Lake City’s literal and figurative mountain-meets-metro personality. Click here for Red Butte Garden’s amazing 2013 summer concert lineup. My ticket cache includes Brandi Carlile, Michael Franti and Neko Case. Hope to see you there.      




Where I Take a Moment for Shameless Self Promotion


Earlier this year I was asked to participate in a new magazine spearheaded by the Downtown Alliance promoting downtown Salt Lake City entitled, you guessed it, Downtown Magazine. My assignment was to write profiles about five people who’ve made their lives, either professionally or by virtue of where they live, in Salt Lake City’s urban core. The predetermined “hit” list included Amy Lukas with Infinite Scale Design Group, DJ and urban hipster Jesse Walker, Squatters owners Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis, CUAC board member and gay rights advocate Diane Stewart and Liddy Huntsman, social media darling and daughter of former presidential candidate and Utah native son Jon Huntsman, Jr.

I'll admit I approached the job thinking I already had a pretty clear idea what I was going to write about each person. Well, this one took my by surprise. Smart, thoughtful, funny, creative and completely authentic are all adjectives that easily describe each person I profiled. Before meeting with Diane Stewart, for example, I assumed she was just another woman of privilege looking for something to do with those hours between getting her hair done and dinner parties. I found out however that she’s as real as they come: she says what she thinks and, yes, is loaded to the gills but uses her money and influence to help those who’d never get a return phone call much less a meeting. And if you’re looking for signs of intelligent life within the Republican Party, look no further than Liddy Huntsman, who uses social media to call a spade a spade on both sides of the aisle. Finally, I’m still aglow from my conversation with Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis. Those two have a chemistry even the closest married couples would envy, and most endearingly, aren’t afraid to show it.

In addition to the piece I wrote, titled “My Downtown,” the magazine covers pretty much everything that makes Salt Lake City so cool—food, fashion, events, attractions and the arts—as well as debunking a few myths. Versus a stale guidebook format, Downtown Magazine is presented as a slick, appealing tome that, at the risk of sounding too self-promotional, you’ll actually want to read.

Downtown Magazine is available at the Downtown Alliance offices (175 E. 400 South), at various downtown businesses, and at the Salt Palace Visitors Center (90 S. West Temple). Watch for it also in a coming issue of the Salt Lake Tribune or Deseret News.

Pedal Pusher



The lovely view just shy of Little Mountain summit in Emigration canyon.

One of my favorite medium-length Salt Lake City area bicycle road rides is Emigration Canyon. Not only is the climb a nice, gradual ascent and the top almost exactly 20 miles from my front door, but Emigration represents one of the main reasons why I love living here: within just minutes of pointing my bike up the canyon the landscape changes from urban neighborhoods to a mountain wilderness filled with Gambel oaks, wildflowers and aspens.

Emigration is just one of five paved canyons feeding into Salt Lake City proper from the Wasatch Mountains, each of which is neatly aligned with downtown’s tidy grid layout. In other words, if you follow the street I mention with each canyon due east from the city, you’ll eventually find yourself in that canyon. Starting from the north is City Creek (North Temple Street), then Emigration (800 South), next is Millcreek (3800 South) and then Big Cottonwood (7000 South/Fort Union Blvd) and finally Little Cottonwood (9400 South). (Parleys Canyon is located in between Emigration and Millcreek and is indeed paved, but the road is Interstate 80 and obviously not an ideal venue for road biking.) A handful of dedicated road bikers I know – or maybe actually just one, Brad Toland – have pedaled all five of these canyons in a single day. I will likely never be that insane fit and am content to ride each one at a time.

I shared the road with hundreds of cyclists when I biked Emigration on Saturday. In addition to its consistent five percent grade, this canyon is very popular with cyclists for a couple of reasons. Two restaurants Ruth’s Diner (Located about a mile from the mouth and featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive Ins and Dives.) and the Sun and Moon Café (About four miles from the mouth.) serve good food on sunny patios providing fun destination points for a more leisurely ride. (I’m a big fan of Ruth’s biscuits and huevos rancheros.) Or, for a more strenuous training ride, once you reach the canyon summit (Little Mountain) continue east to Big Mountain, a killer seven-mile, 2,000-feet elevation gain ride.

If you go: be sure to take two water bottles and a packable jacket. This ride is always hot at the start but after sweating it out during the climb, it’s easy to get chilled on the descent. Also, in the spring and late summer microburst thunderstorms are a common occurrence here. Public restrooms are located in a park just south of the canyon mouth and at the Little Mountain summit. While I don’t advise it, I have on a couple desperate occasions snuck into Ruth’s or and fire station located about halfway up and politely used the facilities.  

One final note: Please don’t litter. It may seem a very obvious, condescending request but while riding on Saturday I noticed a new sign along road asking riders to respect the canyon. It was made out of what appeared to be discarded gel packages. A creative reminder that if you pack it in, you need to pack it out.   

Happy Trails


My favorite kind of date "night": Sunday afternoon road ride along the Legacy Parkway Trail.

I wouldn't say spring has sprung in Utah, but like most other areas of the country, winter's grip is finally loosening a bit, at least below about 7,000 feet. As such my husband and I decided to spend a few hours on Sunday checking out a local bike path neither of us had ridden in awhile, the Legacy Parkway Trail.


The Legacy Parkway Trail is a 14-mile road cyclist's triple threat: flat, smooth and no cars. 

This 14-mile cycling, hiking and horseback riding trail runs north from Salt Lake to Farmington. The trail was completed in conjunction with the four-lane Legacy Parkway freeway in 2008 and was built in part to appease environmental groups who opposed the freeway's location, a rich wetlands feeding ground for tens of thousands of migrating birds, used as a resting point on their journeys from Canada to points in Central and South America. (In fact, we came across a hiker who pointed out of pair of Sandhill cranes about 50 yards off the trail.)

We really got cooking at points along this pancake flat path (A welcome reprieve from the climbs we typically ride around our foothill home.), slowed only by barricades at road intersections. Because of the trail's wetland locale, bugs can be a problem particularly if you're a mouth breather. We encountered only a few on Sunday, likely due to this Spring's slow coming.

I wasn't aware of this until surfing the web today but the newly-completed Denver & Rio Grande Western Rail Trail extends from the Legacy Parkway Trail at the Farmington Bay Bird Refuge north for 23.5 miles through Layton, Clearfield, and Clinton to Hinckley Drive (3600 S) north of Roy. And at the Legacy's southern end you can pick up the Jordan River Parkway Trail, running 46.7 miles south to Utah County.

Plenty of commercial areas are interspersed among the suburbs and wetlands surrounding the trail, providing easy access to coffee or bite to eat along the way. None of the Legacy's seven access trail heads offer restroom facilities or water, however.

For details and Legacy Parkway Trail maps, visit udot.gov.     

My Favorite Zion Wine



A Utah winery seems about as plausible as eating a ham sandwich in a synagogue. (Well may be not that unlikely—or offensive for that matter—but you get the picture.) But not only is wine being fermented right here in Utah as I type, those made at Kiler Grove actually taste good. And I’m not the only one who thinks so. Last month the Utah-based winery swept Arizona’s Southwest Wine Challenge. The winery’s 2009 Petite Sirah won a gold medal, the 2011 Saignée snagged a silver, and the 2009 Trebbiano (my personal favorite) took bronze.

In the spirit of full disclosure, Kiler Grove’s wines are vinted, fermented and bottled here in Utah, but the grapes come from a slightly more hospitable growing locale – you guessed it – California. Since 2000 Micheal and Elva Knight and David Olson, have grown grapes for Kiler Grove wines on ten fertile acres near Paso Robles. The fruit is then shipped to their South Salt Lake winery where they make “Rhône-style wines spanning Old World and New World Styles.” Kiler Grove makes only six wines (The 2010 Interpretation, 2007 and 2009 Zynergy and 2009 and 2010 Zinfandel in addition to the aforementioned award winners.) a choice head winemaker Micheal Knight attributes to quality. “We don’t make many wines because we don’t know of any other grape varietals that would succeed in our vineyard at the same level of quality than those we’ve planted. Our strategy is to grow the best fruit, handle it in the least intrusive manner, and then blend the wines with the goal of making the whole greater than the sum of the parts,” Knight says.


Kiler Grove's little piece of heaven in Paso Robles, California.

That said, earlier this year Kiler Grove announced they’ll be mixing things up a bit with some just-for-fun offerings, along with some wines they’ll just make once, under the label Whimsey. Firm plans include a 2011 Riesling (A good choice for a summer picnic or outdoor concert, perhaps?) and the 2010 Red Thriller. Whimsey wines are scheduled to be released sometime in the next couple of months.   

I tasted Kiler Grove’s Trebbiano for the first time a few years ago at Log Haven. It was springtime and, as is typical with me, I ordered fish. When our server recommended the Trebbiano I consented, albeit against my better judgment. What I got was this very clean and drinkable glass of wine walkiing the line between a fruity pinot grigio and buttery chardonnay. A perfect accompaniment for the fish dish I’d ordered and as someone who prefers to drink white wine year-round, ideal with just about anything but the heaviest red meat dishes. Now, whenever I’m heading downtown I make a point of stopping at Kiler Grove’s tasting room and winery to stock up. The location is a little strange, a side street off of State very close to the Interstate 80 off ramp, but I guarantee finding the place is worth the trip.

The Kiler Grove Winery & Tasting room is located at 53 W. Truman Avenue. Hours are Wednesdays from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Thursday through Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. Kiler Grove Wines are not sold in Utah State Liquor Stores.

A Living Tribute

I recently got to meet this cute little bundle of puppy love: Marty, a 10-week-old Czech German shepherd and Snowbird’s newest search and rescue dog. Right now she stands about eight inches tall at the shoulder. If your heart doesn’t melt after one look at this little muffin, then I say there’s no hope for you. 


Though Marty officially belongs to Snowbird, her primary handler (Her main trainer and whom she lives with.) is Dean Cardinale, a Snowbird ski patrol veteran and owner of World Wide Trekking. Marty comes from Alpine K9 German Shepherds, a police and search and rescue dog breeder located outside of Phoenix, Arizona. “I wanted a female because they are about 10 pounds lighter than a male when full grown,” Dean says. (Ski patrollers need to be able to pick up search and rescue dogs to put them on chairlifts or in helicopters, making size matter.) Marty came from a litter of eight puppies, three female and five male. Dean chose her because Marty is curious, interested, playful and “had the right look in her eye.” As a service dog Marty was able to travel to Utah in the coach area of the plane sitting on Dean’s lap.

Dean and Marty on Snowbird's Hidden Peak, March 31, 2013.

Though Marty seems like an unlikely name to christen a barely 12-pound-puppy with, the moniker holds weighty significance at Snowbird. Marty Hoey was a Snowbird ski patroller and glass-ceiling-busting female climber who died attempting to summit Mount Everest in 1982. She would have been the first American woman to reach the world’s highest point when her climbing harness failed and she plunged over the edge of the Great Couloir.

Hoey was friends and a climbing partner of Snowbird Owner Dick Bass. Prior to her death, she accompanied Bass on his successful ascent of Mount McKinley. Bass was also a member of her climbing group on the day she died. When he eventually summited Everest in 1985, Bass dedicated his ascent to her.

I'd come across photos of Marty Hoey at Snowbird previously, but never knew her story until I asked Dean where the new puppy's name came from. Marty the puppy will likely spend the next decade as a search and rescue dog at Snowbird, during which time hundreds if not thousands of guests are sure to ask how she got her name: a truly lovely way to remember a woman who left such an indelible mark in the world.       

Moab Minus Sand Between Your Toes




The Red Cliffs Lodge offers a civilized yet casual alternative to camping in Moab.

“If my brother were here I’d do it,” says the 20-year-old-looking mother from Pleasant Grove, her husband and three kids standing nearby. My husband Dave and I exchange looks. In other words, we say to each other wordlessly, if this guy I’m married to wasn’t such a wuss, I’d climb all the way to the top. 

We’re standing at the base of the Moonflower Ladder, a series of logs jammed into a cliff-side chimney by early Native Americans at the base of Moab’s Moonflower Canyon.  Dave and I are here to steel ourselves for a day of hiking.  By the time we both shimmy up and back down the very narrow, claustrophobia-inducing ladder, the aforementioned family and a few others are standing around waiting their turn. The canyon, located just south of Moab along Kane Creek Road, is thought to have been sacred to early Sabuagana Utes. It’s now a relatively quiet, eight-site campground maintained by the BLM and with the ladder and petroglyphs as one of Moab’s lesser known attractions.

We are on our first childless vacation in more than four years, and our first trip to Moab in nearly ten. When we were dating and early on in our marriage, our springtime travels to southern Utah were fairly austere, involving pitching a tent in the sand somewhere and going into town only when the beer ran out.  We’d hit all of Moab’s hot spots: mountain biking the Slickrock Trail and Poison Spider Mesa; hiking the Fiery Furnace, to Delicate Arch, and in Negro Bill Canyon.  Now, with uninterrupted sleep and solitude rather than partying and showing off our athletic prowess as our main objectives, we’re staying at the dude ranch-like Red Cliffs Lodge, located 14 miles up the Colorado River along Highway 128, and visiting some of Moab’s more obscure attractions and trails.

After getting our groove on at the Moonflower Ladder, we head further up Kane Creek Road to the Hunter’s Canyon Trailhead, a trail (for those familiar with the Moab area) similar to Negro Bill Canyon sans the crowds.  A cottonwood-lined creek lines the shady, two-mile, out-and-back hike.  Several beaver dam pools are ideal for the few happily drenched dogs we encounter along the way.  And then, about half a mile up the trail on the right is a pleasant surprise: a large, very photogenic arch.  And best of all, mountain bikes are not allowed on the Hunter’s Canyon Trail making it easy for us to let our guard down and enjoy the day without having to worry about the possibility of collision around every corner.

After the hike we head into town to the Healing Arts Center, a massage therapist collective located behind the Moab Information Center.  While Moab’s bodywork options range from mobile therapists who’ll even come to a campsite to the high-end, Western-chic Sorrel River Ranch Resort & Spa, on the recommendation of a friend we’ve chosen what we find out to be a less opulent but very pleasant local’s-preferred option   Dave takes a spin on his road bike while Lisa Albert, LMT works out my kinks.  Moab’s monthly Art Walk is going on that evening, so after our massages and a shower, we make the quick tour of the town’s half-dozen or so galleries while sipping complimentary wine and taking a voyeuristic glimpse into Moab’s local social scene. We end the idyllic day with dinner and a movie.

The next morning, after a leisurely and enormous brunch at Red Cliffs, we decide to hit Thompson Springs on our way north to our awaiting responsibilities.  Thompson Springs was originally established as a railroad stop around the turn of the 20th century.  Coal mining fueled the town’s growth through the early 1900s, but when the mine closed around 1950, almost everyone in town left looking for the next paycheck.  Besides being a bit of a creepy ghost town, Thompson Springs also boasts some of the best preserved early native-American petroglyphs in the state, dating as far back as 7,000 B.C.

We hang out at the petroglyphs for awhile, munching on crackers and hard salami, trying to wrap our heads around how the landscape probably hasn’t changed all that much in the 9,000 or so years since a young Fremont or Anasazi left their mark here.  Walking back to the car we lament about how quickly our Moab weekend has passed and how good it feels to reacquaint ourselves with how we got together in the first place.  And all without a hang over and red sand stuck between our toes.

      
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